AlexKeto.com

Naivasha, Kenya's highest freshwater lake in the belly of the Rift Valley, is most likely dying. At least that is the conclusion of Chege Kiara who works at the Elsamere Conservation Center on Naivasha's shores.  Already in the past ten years, the average depth of the lake has shrunk from eight meters to five meters, he said. He expects the lake to dry up completely at some point in the not too distant future.

If so, a major factor in the death of the lake will be Valentine's Day.

Lake Naivasha, Kenya's highest fresh water lake and source of water for extensive farms, is rapidly running dry. Exactly why is a mystery, but many believe the foreign owned farms are pumping too much water.

While Naivasha's lake levels have historically fluctuated thanks to the mysterious hydrology in the area, what is different now has been the rapid growth of massive cut flower and vegetable farming operations on the lake shores. Just how big the farming operations are is hard to convey but imagine passing mile after mile of greenhouses constructed out of metal frames and plastic sheeting as you drive around the lake. And  these farming operations are sucking in vast quantities of water while allowing pesticides, herbicides and silt to flow back into the lake bed. Compounding the problems, Naivasha has no outlet river which could drain some of the silt. Instead, water evaporates or flows under ground.

The flowers and vegetables raised here are flown by air to markets in Europe. The Lonely Planet Guidebook reports that one farming operation alone shipped one million roses to Europe's  flower auctions just in time for Valentine's Day. I couldn't verify that story, but I certainly could verify the fact that it is nearly impossible to find any of the 400 square miles of papyrus swamps that used to ring Naivasha as recently as the 1950s.

I did manage to locate one area of untouched swamp on Elsamere's 54 acres of property, but this vestigual swamp was more of an oddity than a natural habitat.  Even when the farming operations don't extend to the shoreline, the resorts that cater to the tourists who stop by to admire the lake have done their bit to foul their own nest by clearing the twenty-foot tall papyrus which blocks the view of the water.

With paying jobs a scarcity in the Kenya, people have flooded into the region, eager to work on the farms. However,  Kiara said what the country's economy gains from farms isn't worth it. The farms "pay peanuts" to the workers, he maintained, and this view was borne out by the quality of the housing provided by the farms for the workers, acres and acres of single room dwellings that wouldn't be out of place in Soweto.

Kenyans say the housing at the farms is bad and the pay is worse. But they have little choice but to take a job.

Another Kenyan I spoke to pointed out the farms are largely owned by foreign investors which means the profits flow out of the country. The Kenyan also said that at least some of these owners have no intention of taking even basic steps to protect Naivasha from toxic runoff. When asked whether he would take action to protect a river from herbicides or pesticides, one farm owner told the Kenyan  he "couldn't give a damn" what happened to Naivasha.

What if anything can be done to save Naivasha is unclear. From having lived in Holland, I know the demand for cut flowers is almost a cultural phenomenon in much of Europe where having fresh flowers at the dinner table is  no more unusual than salt and pepper shakers.  Anyone who has been to the U.K. in recent years can't help but notice the fresh green beans and other vegetables that are now available in the depths of winter. I doubt demand for fresh foods will vanish anytime soon even if it is a recent development.  Some will argue that even if the farms don't pay well, at least they pay, and taking these jobs away from Kenyans will just increase desperation and deprivation of the poor.

It's interesting to note a movement has sprung up in Great Britain advocating buying food locally. The justification for this is that flying food into Europe is hugely damaging to the global environment because of the carbon dioxide emissions. Unintentionally, this movement, if it becomes widespread, could at least curb the growth of the flower and vegetable farms that are draining Lake Naivasha. However, it seems  equally likely the lake will vanish as Kiara expects, the farms will go bust, the jobs will disappear, and the price of flowers and vegetables in Europe will rise marginally as the continent locates other sources. 

Certainly, next time I'm in London in December, I'll have a queasy feeling if there is a rose on the restaurant table and fresh green beans with dinner.