A City Without Children And Other Weird Visions
While visiting Manhattan over the weekend, it took me a while to put my finger on exactly why the city has taken on a slightly post-apocalyptic flavor. But I figured it out. There are no children left on Manhattan Island. Or at least none we saw while trooping here and there taking in this sight and that.
After a bit of wandering, I came to the conclusion that drunk lunatics on the street corners bellowing about God and Miami Beach (Where did that come from, I wondered at the time) were normal, but having two kids in tow was weird. At least by Manhattan standards.
I don't believe there is some fiendish secret plot to kidnap all of New York City's youngsters and sell them into slavery on Turkish rowing galleys, altbhough that might be true. But it seems Manhattan has finally reached the point were even a square foot of land costs a gazillion dollars. The kids -- or more accurately their parents -- have been pushed off Manhattan into the farther reaches of Queens and Brooklyn. As The Who would say, "The Kids Are Alright," but they are all living in Archie Bunker's old neighborhood.
We did spot a few kids in the American Museum of Natural History but after close observation, I came to the conclusion these children were not, in fact, native fauna of Manhattan. They weren't dressed in black and didn't have mousse spiked hair.
Here are some other observations about Manhattan:
New York City is fun and tiring in the same way that an overactive two-year-old is fun but kind of tiring. The city and the two-year-old are both in constant motion, have no apparent attention span, periodically emit rude noises, and require unstinting supervision. Imagine, an entire society based on the concept of the "terrible twos."
There are a lot of very, very tense people on the subways. You can spot them quickly because they are the ones carrying on silent conversations with themselves, waving their hands and mouthing the words without sound. Or they are standing there with their heads twitching about. I don't think we rode on a subway car without someone showing a lot of stress. Maybe that's what happens in the city that never sleeps. Maybe they ought to take a nap.
On the other hand, there are some very interesting people also. While waiting for the "A" train, we got a full concert when a Chinese musician played fascinating music on a three string Chinese banjo and then on a single string musical instrument that sounded kind of like a cross between a violin and a cat with it's tail being pulled. Even more bizarre than the sound of the cat-violin was the fact the music was very good. Then the guy decided we had had enough pure culture and shifted over to playing "Old Susanna" on his banjo. Nothing quite like it.
Women on Manhattan have decided that jeans and shoes are really boring. To be hip, you must have knee high boots. These go over the leg warmers. The leg warmers go over the jeans. The boots must be brown. The leg warmers must be black. The jeans must be blue. On top, you must wear a leather coat, brown or black but black is always better than brown. The coat should hang below the waist but no lower than mid-buttocks. If it hangs below mid-buttocks, the coat would block the view of the jeans and then you wouldn't know about the leg warmers. Under the coat comes a blouse and under the blouse comes a silk shirt. A frilly scarf must be tied around the neck and allowed to hang, but now down the front because then that would block the view of the blouse and the silk shirt.
I assume women's clothing in New York comes with assembly instructions because I couldn't keep all that straight first thing in the morning.
For men, you have two choices: You can either wear baggy pants with a North Face jacket and North Face gloves and a baseball cap turned backward. That means you work for a living. Or you can wear jeans and a fancy black dress jacket with a silk lapel, preferably deep crimson. The added advantage is that this outfit ensures you freeze in the New York winter so it gives you a bit of a waif look. I suppose women love this. This outfit also means that you are an artist, literary type or bum since there's no real difference because none of them work. I assume women aren't so fond of this.
To be really hip, men must mousse their hair and then tease it upright so it looks a bit like a hedge hog's coat. I have thought long and hard about how this is done because the mousse must make the hair fall flat. The only solution I came up with is to dip your head in a bowl of olive oil and hang upside down until the oil dries. That would work.
Manhattan's subways are noisy but fairly efficient, but for the history buff with a yen for the age of steam, try the PATH trains. These contraptions, which were probably built by the Volga Steel Works in the U.S.S.R., hit a top speed of 25 miles an hour on a steep downward slope and can travel on one rail. At least that's what it felt like.
If history doesn't do it for you and you'd rather have a Mad Max experience, there are the taxis. Traffic lanes, lights and speed limits are only mild suggestions to taxi drivers and more than once we were barreling along at 60 miles an hour . Once, a pedestrian had the temerity to step out into the road to cross against the light, and our taxi driver swerved towards him to chase him back onto the sidewalk. It's a tough town.
But we never saw a taxi have an accident.
New York's finest have a very tight grip on the Empire State building but seem to have abandoned the rest of the city. While on the observation deck, four cops dressed in full combat gear -- it was black because in New York that is sytlish and everyone but everyone in New York is style conscious, even the cops -- strode about keeping a tight lid on the tourists who were, no doubt, about to launch an insurrection. They were the first and last cops we saw during the weekend and I can only assume they were hiding out on 86th floor to keep out the way of the criminals.


Reader Comments (17)
Hi Alex,
You are the star of my blog post "Alex Keto Beat Me To It" over on women of mystery, with Travis Erwin in a supporting role.
Terrie
The disappearance of children from Manhattan sounds vaguely Ray Bradburyesque. :)
I've never been to NYC, but would really, really like to visit.
Fun post!
Terrie,
I'll take a look even though my ego is big enough as is. (I'm assuming you said nice things)
Barrie,
New York is fun. As the new yorkers say,nothing like it in the world, and some of us are glad for that.
Someday I'll make it the NYC, and that should be an interesting post, but until then I'll keep smiling at yours.
Alex-
Don't know why your window of time and geography appeared kid-free, but that's not representative of Manhattan at all, I can assure you. More and more people are staying in the city with their kidlets and where I used to live on the Upper East Side, weekday errands always included running the gauntlet of stroller gangs on sidewalks and stores. I am extremely surprised, but maybe some combination of weather or other factors was at work. Manhattan fairly crawls, toddles, and teems with young'uns most days- srsly.
Actually, Alex, now rereading your post, I feel like somehow you got a rather unrepresentative view of NYC. I'm not an unabashed fan of the city by any means (we just moved north), however, it is the safest large city in America with around 50,000 cops, as I recall. It's not abandoned in the least, since the policing model is explicitly to spread numbers of officers around rather than to deploy them tactically, like L.A. for example.
Unlike people in NYC's scary 1980's, I walked my NYC neighborhood at night with my dogs and never felt worried, and never saw trouble, with the possible exception of the occasional over-imbibers at closing time. What I always encourage visitors to notice about the subways is that EVERYONE rides. From business dressers and elite clotheshorses to ragamuff students of every variety and background,
senior citizens, kids, artists, tourists, the whole city rides- it's very egalitarian. Occasionally packed, but there's no rule of thumb or standard as to how people will appear or act.
To your experience, I drove into the city for brunch last Sunday, and we noticed the highway was unbelievably empty, as were the sidewalks and usually super-popular restaurant we went to in Tribeca (for the Sat. kids' brunch they have, actually! since our friends have a 10 month-old son). It was all much, much quieter than usual, and we opined the snowstorms Friday might have scared people into cocooning for the weekend. Reading your post, I feel like all you saw were moussed Euro fashion tourists, part of the NYC scene, to be sure, but not nearly the dominant force that they might've seemed. Even the self-talkers on the subway are usually way, way outnumbered by normal people doing all kinds of normal things. Stressed, maybe, especially if they're not the ones on vacation, but normal.
Hopefully, someday you'll get a chance to try it again at a finer time. I didn't want to live there anymore for various reasons, but it's usually just a fantastic place to visit. My SIL and BIL and 7 year-old twins will be coming in for another visit soon. Give me Central Park or the museums or the neighborhoods on a fine, sunny day, and NYC shows itself at its Mary Poppins-colored, bustling best.
I assume women's clothing in New York comes with assembly instructions because I couldn't keep all that straight first thing in the morning.
No doubt.
Great post, as usual.
Clare2e
Don't take too much of what I say seriously. I certainly don't.
Thanks Betsy.
I can't resist needling New Yorkers. All that black and so little time to crack jokes about them.
I have a hard time with Easterners, too. Here we live next to the Rocky Fucking Mountains, and all the eastern transplants can talk about is the pizza. Brother.
Wow. Sounds fun. I would still go even after reading this. Made me chuckle. Hedge hog hair sounds lovely. I thought you were not to wear black with brown? Who knew?
Betsy,
You mean you guys out West know about pizza? Wow.
Jenn,
Don't worry, New York is fun. Expensive, but fun.
Alex, I haven't been in NYC since the early 90's. I was at a conference at WTC 9 months before the first "failed" terrorist attack. I remember standing in the lobby of the hotel right above the parking garage where the blast was. Nine months wasn't exactly a close call, but it was obvious to me the terrorists would come back and finish the job.
So I've never experienced NYC post 9/11, and I imagine that the culture shock would no doubt go way beyond the 15-yr time pass. Still, the dress code was always in full force then and now, and pity the fool who didn't live up to it per their station in life.
I also remember that whichever newspaper you had tucked under your arm (do they still the newspapers there?) was also a way of conveying class and status. And being thin amd fit was also a requirement 15 yrs ago. I wonder if NYers have gotten as fat as the rest of America (probably not).
There's not one single trip I made to NYC where I didn't reurn back to burbs exhausted and grimy, but triumphant for having survived the journey.
Brilliant!!I have visited once and really its like London, but brasher!!
My Ohio-raised daughter is a college student in NYC. She chuckled when I told her about the "uniform." She walks or takes the Subway everywhere.
Expensive? Oh yes, I say as I pack up another box of midwest-priced food.
You must not have been near a park. Then you see lots of children--all white and all being pushed in strollers by brown-skinned women from around the world.
Ah yes, the nanny diary effect. We actually did see one of those scenes. The two toddlers from the Upper East side and their minder with no parents in the same state most likely.